Christmas Market at Southbank Winter Festival, London

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Thinking only of our readers, Rosalind Ormiston volunteered to taste-test a German Christmas market

The British first embraced German Christmas visual culture when Prince Albert, consort to Queen Victoria, reintroduced the Christmas tree to Britain in the 19th  century. Now the country is welcoming rather more of it, as Rosalind Ormiston’s report and photographs reveal.

Christmas is coming and perhaps the nicest way to ease oneself into the enjoyment of festive activities is to visit the German-style Christmas Markets, located throughout the UK (the largest is in Birmingham) and other traditional markets across Europe. In London, it is happening in Hyde Park at Winter Wonderland but for a more intimate experience, head to the Southbank in London, along Queen’s Walk on the riverside between the London Eye and the Festival Hall to find a Christmas Market where 60 festively decorated stalls – in German-Swiss style wooden chalets -  dazzle the eye. (Until 24 December.)

The German influence refers primarily to the traditional German foods and drinks that are on offer at many stalls and booths. Before heading to the craft stalls you may be tempted by the heady aroma of glühwein – red wine spiced with cinnamon, cloves and orange flowers – or hot apple juice cocktails (non-alcoholic) – as their scents waft through the air. Dotted throughout the Market are a variety of ‘kitchens’ cooking wonderful delicacies.

A must-try is the German version of pizza, Flammkuchen, first created in the 5th century in the region of German Pfalz and French Alsace. The wafer thin wholemeal dough base is baked on a stone slab at a temperature of 450 degrees Celsius, which guarantees that the variety of toppings: cheese, ham, onion, sour cream – not an Italian tomato in sight - are perfect to eat.

If you are in the mood for something sweet, then head to watch Laszlo and Vivien at GS Pastries make you a ‘Chimney Cake’ – the name describes its shape – from a recipe and method invented in Hungary 600 years ago. Choose your own topping of cinnamon, chocolate, coconut or almond (£3.50). They will give you the ‘chimney cake’ history whilst cooking it for you.

Having tried some of the festive fare, what is there to buy as gifts for oneself or others? If you are looking for presents many handmade art and craft works are on sale here. One of the most outstanding stalls is Pama Forza Crafts from Jerusalem. Meet Salam, whose family-run business creates unique handcrafted ceramic bowls, dishes and plates (£4 to £80), and wine glasses (two for £30). Nearby and a must-visit is the stylish, very classy stall of Thomas Kosmala, selling handmade perfumes and colognes, soaps and candles, each beautifully presented in gift boxes (think Jo Malone, Heyland and Whittle, The White Company). Tom started his own-brand business seven years ago and his collection is available in Covent Garden too. The eye-catching display, from individual tiny rose-head or lavender sprig decorated soaps to candles in glass, could be a one-stop shop for presents (Gift box of four soaps, £12)

Turning in the direction of the London Eye, and close to the children’s Merry-Go-Round, look out for Mr Schmidt, who has a stall of his brightly coloured handmade ceramics and glass (from £5), created by his company, Schmidt Glass, in Hungary. This is his second year at the Market. In the same area look for the stall which creates a person’s name in a frame – from an intriguing selection of individual photographs of buildings and objects, you choose from the selection – it may sound odd but its highly attractive and original (from £12).  Here too is ‘Pollyfields’ from Devon, in its first year at the Market, selling festive decorations created from dried citrus fruits, cinnamon, leaves and flowers and masses of pot pourri, all beautifully presented.

If you are feeling a little chilled by now, forsake the glühwein, beers and coffee and head for ‘Loud’, selling traditional wool hats, scarves and gloves (from £5). ‘Loud’ has a novel selection of hats too from furry animal face hats to punk spiky helmets. In between these booths is a treat of shop selling Hungarian wooden toys and embroidered tablecloths and linens.

By now, you may need some more money (there is a cashpoint close-by in the Festival Hall entrance facing the river), and something to eat. Look opposite the Festival Hall entrance for a different riverside eating experience  at ‘I Love Ostrich’ stall. Watch whilst Ashley makes you an ostrich burger, freshly cooked to order with a choice of toppings. He will explain the many qualities of the company’s ostrich meat recipe, 98% meat, 1.5% fat, low cholesterol, a very healthy diet option for the carnivore. From the plethora of stalls and variety of goods for sale you may wonder which stall of the 60 is attracting the most attention. It is undoubtedly ‘Kraftwerk’ (not the rock banc), from Stuttgart, selling festive snow globes, traditional wooden toys, and painted glass tea-light candles; definitely worth a look if you can get near the counter.

The Christmas Market on the Southbank is open until 24 December:

11 a.m.–8 p.m. Monday–Thursday

10 a.m.–10 p.m. Friday and Saturday

10 a.m.–8 p.m. Sunday

The Christmas Market is part of the Southbank Winter Festival Programme